I can hear it inside the car with windows up or down. Not sure if you can hear it from the outside or not. It is only when going over bumps or uneven road surfaces at low speeds. I just purchased the car a few months ago when it was still winter, and only recall it gradually doing this as the weather has warmed up.
The weirdest thing is that my previous sunfire also amade the same exact noise, but never did get it checked out because the head gasket blew and I got rid of it. Anybody have a clue what could be wrong? A mechanic could put it on a lift and probably spot the problem. Not interested in taking it to a shop? Try some experiments in a parking lot, like does it sound louder when turning in a certain direction?
What about stepping on the brake? What about stepping on the brake after going in reverse? Come up with all the variations of slow speed driving you can think of, find out which produces the loudest noise. Then post back here with the results. You can even progress to spraying the rubber bushings that the spring ends sit on, to the extent that you can access them.
Silicone spray cannot do any harm, and in this case it may be the solution. If this technique works, and you isolate the source, you can then think about changing some parts.
Sway bar bushings and sway bar links are very cheap to buy. These things are easy to change, but there are some things you should know before starting.
Thanks for the responses. I had my boyfriend push on the front of the car, and there is a sound if he pushes hard enough, but it sounds more like a whooshing air sound from the outside…its the best way I can think to explain it.how to fix repair suspension squeaks noise groans sway bar rubbers instructional tutorial
I was thinking of trying some AT reseal to spray on some things under there. I saw on a youtube video that it can be used for that sort of thing. Any idea if that would harm anything?
It definitely only does it when going over bumps and rough surfaces. Only when going on rough roads. Which is pretty much everywhere in my area. When your bf pushes on the bumpers, left vs right, does one side sound obviously different than the other? The new description sounds more like a worn out strut than anything else. How many miles does this car have on it, anyway?
It hasmiles on it. Not sure if struts were ever changed or not, I bought it from a used car lot. That is the large bar going across the car linking the left and right suspension to one another. There are 2 rubber bushings attaching the bar to the frame out toward the ends. One or both are likely very dry. Spray silicone spray on the bushings and bounce the car up and down to work it in. Silicone works great on rubber and comes with a straw to hit small places. That should make things quiet.
Squirt a little silicone, there, too.Your car squeaks. It's gotten to the point where the neighbors know you're on the way home from half a block away because of all the "chirps" and "eeps" coming from your suspension. It's embarrassing, man. It's also potentially expensive if you have to replace all those worn parts. So why do these components begin to squeak?
Suspension and steering joints wear out--and ultimately fail--when unlubricated metal-to-metal contact erodes bushings and bearing surfaces, much like grit sandpaper on a wooden table. So let's nip this degradation in the bud. You're lucky. Chassis lubrication isn't expensive. You can buy a grease gun, some chassis grease and a couple of aerosol cans of lubricant for less than the price of one worn-out tie rod end.
So there's no excuse.
Your vehicle doesn't need to sound like an angry gerbil on a treadmill. Most cars and light trucks today are manufactured with sealed "lubed for life" ball joints, tie rod ends and even U-joints. It's a self-fulfilling prophecy--when the factory-fill grease dries out, the joint wears out.
Some vehicles still come with suspension and driveline parts that have proper grease fittings, allowing you to use a simple hand-pumped grease gun to inject precious lubrication at regular intervals. Virtually all aftermarket parts, even the direct replacements for the sealed factory units, have grease fittings to allow for lubrication.
Only the grease fitting. In fact, you could even drill and tap a hole into a sealed part and add a grease fitting yourself, which is something I usually do on my own cars. Why do car manufacturers leave off this inexpensive fitting? They count every cent that goes into a new vehicle. And a few cents saved onvehicles is eventually real money.
More important, lubed-for-life parts allow automakers to tout their vehicles as requiring less scheduled maintenance.Got car issues? Well, we've got the answers!
Easily search thousands of entries to find exactly what you're looking for. Need advice on a dealing with a blown head gasket? Oil Leak? Cracked block or leaking radiator? Be sure to leave a comment or question on anything that may interest you.
How to Stop Your Car From Squeaking
You can also send an email to our pro for direct assistance! Having a squeaky suspension can be one of the most frustrating problems to have in any vehicle. Every time you go over even the smallest bump or make a turn, you have to deal with the squeaks and creaks of your suspension.
Squeaky suspensions are not just embarrassing, they can also be an indication that there is a big problem with your suspension. Besides the annoying noise, a broken suspension system in your vehicle can increase the likelihood of rollovers, make it difficult to control your vehicle in corners and can increase your stopping distance in an emergency.
Suspension issues can also cause your steering geometry to be incorrect which can lead to increased tire wear and difficulty negotiating turns. A squeaky suspension system is not just embarrassing with those squeaking noises and grinding noises, but it is also dangerous and can be extremely difficult to diagnose and fix. You also have a shock absorber by each wheel and in most cases a sway bar or anti-roll bar both in the front and in the back.
Each one of these components have a joint on each end that could be the source of your noise. There are three types of joints commonly used in your suspension components. Ball joints are used when the joint must be able to move in multiple plans such as rotating and moving up and down. For example, the joint at the end of your lower control arm that connects to the steering knuckle needs to move up and down as the spring compresses, but also turn as you turn the steering wheel. Ball joints are much like your shoulder or hip joint where a stainless steel ball fits in a Teflon cup and provides the range of motion and rigidity needed.
Ball joints sometimes have grease fittings in the cup and a rubber boot containing the grease. If the boot rips these joints can start to make squeaks when you turn. If you find a ball joint with a torn boot, consider replacing it. Bushings are used if the joint only needs to move in one direction, such as up and down or side to side. Bushings are the most common joints in your suspension system and also the most likely to case a squeaky suspension. Bushings are basically rubber sleeves that go between the frame of your vehicle and the suspension component which allows the suspension component to rotate.Eddie spent 35 years in the automotive business with Honda.
Any squeak in your vehicle can be annoying, especially if it continues to get worse. Here are four common types of squeaks that come from the brakes—problems that come through the shop everyday—plus a fifth bonus brake noise, a scraping noise.
I hope I can help you understand what's causing your brakes to squeak. Most brakes squeak after sitting overnight. This is usually due to moisture from rain, dew, or condensation that collects on the surface of the rotors. When moisture collects on the brake rotors, it causes a thin layer of rust to form on the rotor surface. As the rotor turns, the pads scrape the rust off the rotors, and then the rust gets caught on the leading edge of the brake pad.
These fine particles of rust then get embedded into the leading edge of the pad and cause a squeak. The only way to prevent this type of squeak is to garage your vehicle or store it in a climate-controlled environment. Rust on the rotors can also cause pad impressions on rotors, which in turn, cause a thumping noise or brake pulsation.
The brake-wear indicator is another common cause of brake squeak. This sound starts when the brake pads are almost worn out and getting extremely thin. The wear indicators are little metal tabs made of hardened steel. The manufacturers attach wear indicators in different ways: welding them on, using a rivet, or using a push-on clip attached to the edge of the brake-pad backing. These steel tabs are designed to hit the rotor before the brake pad totally wears out, warning the driver that the pad material is getting very thin and is about to create a metal-to-metal situation.
Brake pads normally contain bits of metal, but some cheap brake pads are manufactured with very high metal content.
They have large chunks of metal pressed into the pad material. These large pieces of metal drag on the rotor and cause a high pitched brake squeak.
Since brake pads sometimes can last between 30, to 40, miles, you'll have to listen to this annoying sound for months. This is one reason to spend a few extra bucks on quality brake pads. Another reason, of course, is that your brakes stop the car and quality helps. To minimize squeaks from your brake pads, use brake pads with a high content of organic brake material resin, rubber, Kevlar, fiber, or what-have-you. More organic brake material means fewer metal shavings in the brake pad, less squeaking, and less metal dust on your wheels.
Metal particles in brake dust can discolor chrome or aluminum wheels.Eddie spent 35 years in the automotive business with Honda. Brake noises can be annoying, but can also alert us of an upcoming danger. It's best to play it safe and have brake noises checked by a trusted mechanic. I will cover three of the most common brake noises I encounter on a daily basis and try to shed some light on the repair.
Some of the repair techniques I share with you here are unorthodox and you will never find them in a service manual or Technical Service Bulletin. If you decide to try them please be cautious and safe. Hearing a grinding noise when you apply your brakes is really like hitting a rumble strip on the edge of the highway; if you hear this, you need to wake up and stop driving. A grinding noise on braking is usually caused by a lack of brake pad material; the pads and rotors are now metal to metal, with no braking material left.
Brake pads are like bars of soap.
Four Common Types of Brake Squeaks
Eventually they get used up, and you have to replace them and spend a little money. And when you get the bill for your brake job, you will need CPR cardio-pulmonary rescuscitation. If you replace your pads on time you can often keep your rotors. This brake issue is one that will annoy the hell out of the driver, and suck the life out of the technician. It took me months to figure out what caused this thumping noise in the rear of a vehicle when braking. Many cars have drum brakes in back, where a shoe stops the car by pressing on the inside of a metal drum.
Brake drums, like rotors, get resurfaced once in a while. The cutting bit on the brake lathe removes the old braking surface and leaves a nice new mating surface.
When the brake shoes ride on the new surface, they will follow the groove like the needle of your record player follows a track. If the groove is interrupted, the shoes snap back, hitting the backing plate. This phenomenon happens very quickly, causing a thumping noise that will drive you crazy and wondering if your car is falling apart or even safe to drive. There are several ways to fix this noise. One is to replace the rear drums.
A second way, less drastic, is to remove the drums, install them on a lathe, and sand the crap out of the mating surface with coarse sandpaper. The third way I found by trial and error and pure frustration is a quick fix using the emergency brake. You will not find this procedure in any service manual or car repair manual, not even on car repair talk radio. It can be dangerous if not performed correctly so please be careful.
Drive your car in a remote area with little or no traffic at a speed of about 40 miles an hour. Then drive the car at normal speeds and use the brakes the way you normally would. If the noise has not changed, you may have a different thumping noise than what I have described here in this article. Give up on this remedy and try something else. My sister came to me with this noise after she had her brakes checked at her local garage.
They had adjusted her rear brakes so the emergency brake handle had less free play in it, and this is when her troubles began.Your car has probably been a faithful servant for a while now. Then one morning you start your car and an ear-piercing screech or shriek comes from the engine.
People on the street look at you and neighborhood dogs begin to howl. But what's going on? A little knowledge of the systems in your car can help you figure it out. If you've listened to this sound a few times, you may have already noticed some patterns. Does the noise occur only at start up and then go away after 30 seconds or so? Is it worse in cold weather than in warm? If so, then you are probably looking at a tired drive belt.
Step 1: Listen to the engine. Cars have a number of devices that require mechanical energy and are driven by rubber belts. Among those are the alternator, which maintains a charge on your battery and electrical system, the air conditioning AC compressor, which circulates the refrigerant for the AC system, and the power steering pump, which provides hydraulic pressure for the power steering and sometimes the brakes.
Some cars operate all these accessories with a single, serpentine belt. Others have multiple belts for the different devices. When these belts start to slip, they will make a sharp screeching noise. Step 2: Operate the accessories. Most often, the belt screeching occurs at cold start: when the car is started after being parked for at least four or five hours. Start the car while it is cold and turn the AC off and on.
If the sound of the screech changes, then the fault is likely in the belt that drives the air conditioner. Operate the headlight switch. If that causes a change in the squealing sound, then the culprit is the belt that drives the alternator. Turn the steering wheel to full lock position either right or left. If that changes the sound, then the belt that drives the power steering is at fault.
Step 3: Consult the workshop manual. Find a diagram for the drive belt layout. Make note of whether you have multiple drive belts or individual belts for the different accessories. With what you may have learned by operating the accessories, you might be able to pin down which belt is giving you trouble. Most modern cars have a single serpentine belt that drives all the devices. If that is the case, any one of the accessories may be contributing to the sound of the belt.
Step 4: Lubricate the belts. With the engine running, and your safety glasses in place, shoot some belt dressing or some spray lubricant on the belts. If there is a problem in the belts the sound may stop instantly.
This is not a permanent fix. In fact, the belt might start squealing again in just a few minutes. Step 5: Check the belt tension and condition. Shut off the engine and try to flex the belt with your fingers.
The workshop manual will tell you how much you should be able to move it. Old style V belts may have between half and one inch of flex while modern serpentine belts will have much less. The belt tension may be adjustableor it may be managed by an automatic tensioner.
Either way, many modern cars have very little working space at the front of the engine so replacing or adjusting the belts can be a test of your patience and ingenuity.Rich12 Member. I recently discovered a squeak when the car is parked and I move the car forward and backwards.
The harder I push, the more it squeaks. I went to a mechanic who told me the struts were "bad" and needed replacement. So, replace the struts.
Do you find that this is implausible? How many miles on the odometer? I am wondering about your OP. If the car is parked, why would you push it by hand? In any event, at K miles it doesn't surprise me that the front struts and rear shocks would need to be replaced. However the cost of doing that is high enough so that you'll probably need other reasons to take action before you'll decide to make the investment.
If you see that the tires are not wearing evenly, that is another good indication that you have worn suspension parts or maybe the car needs a wheel alignment.
When I park on an incline and get out of the car, the weight transfer causes a rocking motion that squeaks. Now that it's rained I don't hear it much, though. Could have been road salt in the springs,bushings,etc. The car has a stiff, firm ride touring and doesn't bounce over speed bumps. Just put a water pump in it and new hybrid battery. Gonna drive this car til I die or it gets totaled in an accident.
Next GenRacing New Member. Joined: Aug 31, 13 2 0 Location: Ft. Did you ever figure out what the cause of the sound was? I have seen some simlar videos saying it was the exhaust downpipe gasket. Just curious if you did anything about it.
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